If your Logitech G29 or G920 racing wheel isn't showing up on Windows 11, uninstall both G HUB and Logitech Gaming Software, reboot, and reinstall only G HUB. That single action resolves roughly 70% of detection failures, based on community threads on r/simracing and the Logitech support forums. If that doesn't fix it, follow the steps below in order — they address every known failure mode, from USB power delivery to dead hardware.
Symptom Matrix
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Jump to |
|---|---|---|
| Wheel not in Device Manager at all | USB power or port issue | Step 1 |
| Shows as "Unknown Device" | Driver conflict or corrupt install | Step 2 |
| G HUB says "No device found" | G HUB vs LGS conflict | Step 2 |
| Detected in Windows, not in game | Game profile misconfiguration | Step 5 |
| Detected then disconnects | Power delivery issue | Step 1 |
| No LEDs, no force feedback | Wheel firmware / hardware failure | Step 6 |
Step 1: Confirm USB Power Delivery
The G29 draws up to 900mA; the G920 draws up to 800mA. Front-panel USB 3.0 headers on many ATX cases only supply 500–600mA from the motherboard connector, which causes the wheel to enumerate partially, then disconnect under power load.
Action: Plug the wheel directly into a rear-panel USB port on the motherboard. If you're using a hub, replace it with a powered hub (7-port, 12V adapter) and verify it provides ≥900mA per port.
| Connection type | Typical current supply | G29 compatible? |
|---|---|---|
| Rear motherboard USB 3.0 | 900mA | Yes |
| Front-panel header USB 3.0 | 500–600mA | Sometimes |
| USB 2.0 port (any) | 500mA | No |
| Unpowered hub | 500mA shared | No |
| Powered hub (12V) | 900mA per port | Yes |
If the wheel has never worked on this PC and only fails on front-panel ports, this is almost certainly your issue. Move it to a rear port and proceed.
Step 2: G HUB vs Logitech Gaming Software (LGS) Conflict
G HUB (the current app) and LGS (the legacy app, discontinued in 2021) install conflicting kernel-mode drivers for the same USB PID/VID combination. If both are installed — which happens after Windows reinstalls or partial G HUB updates — one driver wins and the other breaks device enumeration.
Clean removal procedure:
- Download the Logitech Uninstaller Tool from Logitech's support page.
- Disconnect the wheel from USB.
- Run the uninstaller. Select both G HUB and Logitech Gaming Software. Reboot when prompted.
- After reboot, verify no Logitech drivers remain: open Device Manager → View → Show Hidden Devices → look under "Human Interface Devices" and "Mice and Other Pointing Devices" for any Logitech entries. Delete them.
- Reboot again.
- Install only G HUB (current version from g.logi.com). Do not install LGS.
- Connect the wheel — it should appear in G HUB within 15 seconds.
Step 3: Driver Reinstall via Device Manager
If the wheel shows as "Unknown Device" after Step 2, the PID/VID registration is corrupted. The G29 enumerates as USB PID 0xC24F; the G920 as PID 0xC262. Both use Logitech's HID-class driver (logidhid.sys).
Procedure: 1. With the wheel connected, open Device Manager. 2. Right-click the Unknown Device entry → Update Driver → Browse my computer → Let me pick from a list. 3. Select "HID-compliant device" from the list. Click Next. 4. Unplug and replug the wheel. G HUB should now detect it.
If it still shows as Unknown Device, right-click → Uninstall device → check "Delete the driver software for this device" → confirm. Unplug the wheel, reboot, replug. Windows will re-enumerate and load the generic HID driver, which G HUB can then claim.
Step 4: The Force-Mode Initialization Dance
Both the G29 and G920 require a calibration sequence on first boot with G HUB running. If this sequence is interrupted (crash, USB replug mid-rotation), the wheel parks in a configuration state and appears unresponsive in games even when visible in Device Manager.
Procedure: 1. Start G HUB. Confirm the wheel appears (light ring visible on G HUB dashboard). 2. Power cycle the wheel: unplug from USB, wait 10 seconds, replug. 3. When the wheel reinitializes, let it complete its full auto-calibration: it will rotate about 900° left and right and then self-center. Do not hold the wheel during this. 4. In G HUB's Steering Wheel settings, run "Calibrate" once manually. 5. Test in the game. The first launch after a clean G HUB install typically triggers another calibration sequence when the game opens — let it complete.
Step 5: Game-Side Profile Fixes
Some games (notably Forza Horizon 5 and Assetto Corsa Competizione) ship with default input presets that reassign axes, causing the wheel to appear "detected but broken" in-game.
Forza Horizon 5: Settings → Controls → Devices → confirm "Steering Wheel" is selected (not "Gamepad"). Under Steering, set "Steering Axis" to Left Stick / Steering Wheel explicitly. Set deadzones: Inner 0, Outer 100. Set vibration scale to 60–80 to avoid FFB clipping.
Assetto Corsa Competizione: Options → Controls → confirm Logitech G29/G920 profile is active. If the game auto-detected a gamepad layout, delete the current profile and create a new one with the wheel as the primary device.
iRacing: Options → Controls → run the Calibration Wizard. iRacing requires per-session wheel detection and will not use the wheel until you complete the in-app calibration. Set "Wheel Range" to 900° for both G29 and G920 to match their physical rotation.
Step 6: When the Wheel Is Actually Dead
If none of the above works, check the diagnostic LED pattern:
- Solid white ring: Normal — wheel is powered and ready.
- Flashing white ring (slow, 1Hz): Calibrating — wait for it to complete.
- No LEDs at all: The wheel has no power. Check USB cable, try a different cable (USB-A to USB-B Micro, same as many printers). The G29's power draw at rest is 280mA — a multimeter on the USB cable should confirm.
- Flashing red LED (G HUB only): Firmware update in progress. Do not unplug.
If the wheel shows no LEDs on a confirmed-good USB port with G HUB removed (to rule out software), the motor controller is likely dead. Both G29 and G920 are eligible for Logitech's 2-year warranty replacement; contact Logitech support with purchase proof.
Spec Recap: G29 vs G920
| Spec | G29 (B00Z0UWWYC) | G920 (B00Z0UWV98) |
|---|---|---|
| Platform | PS5, PS4, PC, Mac | Xbox Series X/S, Xbox One, PC, Mac |
| Rotation range | 900° | 900° |
| Force feedback | Dual-motor helical gears | Dual-motor helical gears |
| Pedal set | 3 pedals (accelerator, progressive brake, clutch) | 2 pedals (accelerator, progressive brake) |
| USB PID | 0xC24F | 0xC262 |
| Street price (2026) | $180–220 | $170–210 |
Common Pitfalls
BIOS Legacy USB setting: Some older boards have a "Legacy USB Support" BIOS option that interferes with HID device enumeration on Windows 11. If your wheel worked on Windows 10 and stopped after upgrading, check BIOS → Advanced → USB Configuration → Legacy USB Support = Enabled.
USB-C docks and Thunderbolt hubs: Many USB-C docks present all downstream ports as USB 2.0 (500mA). The G29 will fail to enumerate. Use a direct USB-A port.
Bottom Line
The most common cause is a G HUB + LGS driver conflict, which affects roughly 70% of "wheel not detected" cases on Windows 11 based on r/simracing community reports. Clean-uninstall both apps, reboot twice, reinstall only G HUB. If that fails, follow Steps 1 through 6 in order. Consulting the Logitech support knowledge base and Windows 11 USB stack documentation covers any edge cases not addressed here.
